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A Press Democrat Blog

Proximal Kitchen

Cooking locally, with really sharp knives

Larks’ Tongues in Aspic

What did you listen to when you were young? And do you still play the same records? Looking back, I may have been indicted as excessively broad, as wantonly eclectic for its own sake: Experimental jazz, baroque classical, LA punk, progressive rock (whatever that means), and lots of metal, a scattershot gang of vinyl finery parading across my turntable.… Read More »

A Rainy-Day Braise: Ancho Chilis, Zinfandel, and Beets

Goat shanks braised with Zinfandel, Ancho Chilis, and Beets I think this is a killer one-pot dish for a dank, inclement night although, in point of fact, I’m cheating, because neither beets, nor my protein of choice – young goat shanks, from the Owen Family Farm up in Hopland – are technically in season right now. But the mild heat and smoky undertone from the chilies, together with the spicy-sweet peppery jam of the wine, seemed a natural bedfellow for dense, rich, and slightly gamy flavors…… Read More »